Burgers at a Noma offshoot, ’nduja miso ramen at a formative Nordic noodle shop, smoked sardines and natural wine on a buzzy jetty, a three-Michelin-starred tasting menu, and more of Copenhagen’s best
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The new Nordic kitchen has dominated the dining scene in the Danish capital for decades, ever since world-renowned restaurant Noma first opened. Today, you’ll find products from Noma Projects across the city’s restaurants (and locals’ homes) and vets of the restaurant’s kitchen (and those of sister establishments) among the scene’s notable stars. Other chefs of that influential generation still hold sway too; Bobe by chef Bo Bech (of the famed, now-closed Geist) has been on the lips of many local diners this year.
After two decades of new Nordic, though, as Noma gets set to close at the end of 2024, what was once new is now standard. Chefs and diners are looking forward. While Bobe represents a comeback hit for Bech, it also encapsulates a new interest among the city’s mid-range restaurants in shared plates. Chefs of all stripes are also constantly digging for deeper, punchier flavors in excellent local produce and looking to global cuisines like Japanese, Korean, and Mexican. Most recently, the city has seen a number of Italian openings, including Mirabelle Spisería in Nørrebro, where Christian Puglisi (formerly of Relae) celebrates his Sicilian culinary heritage.
With plenty of classic places to try specialties like smørrebrød and hot dogs, along with a constant deluge of excellent eating and drinking experiences, Copenhagen remains one of Europe’s ultimate food hot spots.
Anna Norström is a Swedish-born award-winning journalist, moderator, and speaker. Her stories are mainly focused around the food and beverage world, from serious investigative pieces on sexism in kitchens to restaurant reviews and travel guides.
Surt was one of the first to make the old Carlsberg Byen brewery area into a hot spot. People are known to cross half the city just to grab a pizza baked by Italian owner Giuseppe Oliva, who was also a key player in chef Christian Puglisi’s Baest, Copenhagen’s first upmarket Italian restaurant. Surt is ideal for lunch, when you can tuck into a Sur Pie baked in a tray, and equally good in the evening for the full experience: ancient grain-based sourdough pizzas loaded with a deep red sauce made from Sicilian siccagno tomatoes and topped with items like Hindsholm pork sausage and buffalo mozzarella. There’s also a great selection of wine from Sicilian producers, though you can also check out Surt’s nearby sister wine bar, Lĭquo, which serves wines from all 21 Italian regions.
Jordnær has been one of the hardest tables to score in the city after it earned its third Michelin star, an especially impressive feat considering a kitchen fire closed the place for months. Chef and owner Eric Kragh Vildgaard, who spent his teens in and out of juvenile detention before finding inspiration in the kitchen, operates the restaurant in Gentofte, a 20-minute drive from the town center. His wife, Tina Kragh, has won several service and sommelier awards of her own while overseeing the restaurant floor. The tasting menu, which hovers around 18 courses, threads together Nordic and Japanese flavors; options are heavy on seafood and skip meat entirely, so you might see something like gel made with langoustine heads, Cognac, and Tahitian vanilla.
Mathias Silberbauer’s French bistro, decked out with red-checked tablecloths, changes its menu daily, but you’d be lucky to find beef onglet with pepper sauce, mussels topped with generous dollops of aioli, classic escargot with loads of garlic and herb butter, and pissaladière (an onion tart that’s a must-order if it’s on the menu). The chef used to run his own restaurant in Nice, and he’s a veteran of Relæ, Bæst, and Manfreds, the iconic restaurant that Silberbauers replaced. There’s an extensive wine list and knowledgeable staff to unlock its potential.
Despite its slightly out-of-the-way location in Frederiksberg, Bird attracts a crowd of international bartenders and drink nerds, especially after it won Best Cocktail Bar in Denmark at the 2024 Bartenders’ Choice Awards, a celebration of Nordic bars. The listening bar delivers “highballs with hi-fidelity,” as weekend DJs spin everything from jazz to Balearic house, while patrons enjoy mostly pre-batched cocktails (which make for even execution from drink to drink). The beverages tend to take cues from classics, often made with bottles from young craft distilleries. The signature Bonfire Manhattan is a good place to start, as is the selection of Negronis.
Tucked away in artsy Nørrebro, Baka d’ Busk is run by a group of friends, the self-styled “plant boys,” who devote the kitchen to their vegetarian ethos. Set with a variety of plates from different antique shops, no two tables look the same — except for ubiquitous shot glasses. (It’s almost as if servers are telepathic; visualize the word “vodka,” and a shot will come flying.) Dishes are large — chef and owner Jonathan Zeuthen Knoll doesn’t want anyone leaving hungry — and beautifully executed, with towering layers of prime veggies. The wine list is devoted to small craft producers.
Jonathan Tam’s background at Relae and Noma certainly shaped him as a chef, but he shows off a unique cooking style at his own first restaurant. The tasting menu focuses on Nordic ingredients and Danish ones in particular, like pork served char siu-style from Hindsholm farm. Jatak works closely with 15-plus different suppliers to fill the kitchen shelves each week, while the sommeliers pour bottles from small winemakers that you hardly see elsewhere. Sit and dine at the counter to watch everything in the open kitchen. It’s no surprise that Jatak (meaning “Yes, please” in Danish) got awarded a Michelin star within its first months of service.
Since opening her first taco stand outside the Torvehallerne market back in 2015, chef Rosio Sanchez has grown a small empire of casual taquerias, as well as this crown jewel, which offers upscale a la carte and tasting menus. The menu reflects the chef’s Mexican upbringing in Chicago, and there’s a strong throughline of masa, which is always cooked fresh and transformed into perfect little tortillas. Among the more classic dishes, don’t sleep on the cochinita pibil taco with slow-cooked pork from Hindsholm, but be sure to try some of the more creative and seasonal items, like the spicy mussels. Solo diners are well taken care of in the bar, tucking into warm peanuts toasted with garlic and chile de árbol alongside mezcal margaritas. A big bonus: Many of the top restaurants in Copenhagen are only open for dinner, but Sanchez caters to the lunch crowd.
Pompette is a tiny, walk-in-only wine bar and shop offering a great selection of natural wine at affordable prices; there’s always a red, white, bubbles, rosé, and orange on offer for roughly the same price as a pint of beer. There’s also a menu of tasty snacks such as ricotta and anchovies or mackerel escabeche to go alongside. The owners also operate Poulette just next door, which sells spicy fried chicken sandwiches worth traveling for, and Villette – a bar and canteen located around the corner.
After 10 years operating as a bakery in hip Nørrebro, Mirabelle upgraded into a full-blown all-day restaurant that combines Danish produce with the food culture of Sicily, the homeland of founder Christian Puglisi (well known for the iconic, now-closed Relae). Come in the morning and you can still get the famous sourdough or freshly made pastries, or come by later in the day for must-order arancinis, especially the version with pork ragu and smoked scamorza cheese. Other highlights from the a la carte menu include steak tartare, ravioli, and the seasonal almond granita, and there’s a tasting menu at dinner for those that prefer.
Address: Guldbergsgade 29A
Copenhagen is home to some of the best coffee bars in Europe. Prolog, opened by Jonas Gehl and Sebastian Quistorff back in 2016, has two shops in the city, both hubs for the most devoted coffee nerds. Opt for the one in Kødbyen to enjoy pastries from Juno bakery and a nice cup of java. Prolog works directly with around 30 different farmers, mainly from Mexico, Costa Rica, Colombia, Peru, Ethiopia, and Kenya. You can also stock up on beans and all kinds of coffee equipment.
This landmark in Copenhagen’s Meatpacking district still delivers excellent seafood after 15 years. The a la carte dishes include fish and chips, moules frites, an extensive oyster selection, top-quality langoustines, and various types of grilled fish. The kitchen stays open until 11 p.m., making it a good choice for a late dinner, and the wine list pulls from a generous cellar.
Everyone who goes to Propaganda ends up drinking the Kool-Aid, except here it tastes like natural wine and spicy Korean food. Riccardo Marcon (also the founder of Barabba) teamed up with chef Youra Kim to open this casual modern Korean eatery combined with a bottle shop. Come for the signature gochujang-glazed chicken topped with crunchy peanuts, or go for seasonal dishes like spicy potato with fish cakes or white asparagus kkochi (skewers) with rice cakes and pine nut sauce. For drinks, just pick a bottle from the shop. The corkage fee is canceled after midnight and the kitchen runs late, making this a great spot to end the night. Propaganda’s block on the once not-so-diner-friendly Vester Farimagsgade is now a highly sought-after area among new restaurateurs.
A good old hot dog is the ultimate street food in the Nordics. You’ll find stands scattered all over the city selling røde pølser (red hotdogs): boiled pork wieners wrapped in bright red casings. For a true taste of what is arguably the Danish national dish, head to John’s Hotdog Deli, a cart conveniently parked just outside the Central Station. The dogs come stuffed with distinct, creative flavors, such as wild boar with mushroom or lemon with thyme, and there’s an array of toppings beyond ketchup and mustard.
Since opening its doors back in 2017, Slurp has helped foster a ramen trend all over the Nordic countries. Founder Philipp Inreiter, a protege of Noma, traveled around Japan and came back with a passion for broth and noodles. The ramen is Tokyo-style and Inreiter doesn’t hold back on the spice, making a bowl perfect on a cold winter’s day. The ’nduja miso ramen, a recent addition to the menu, has earned a bit of hype, contributing to the shop’s one downside: the lines. People have been known to line up for two hours during the weekend lunch rush.
This restaurant takes its sustainability program seriously, from the paint on the wall to its kitchen’s zero-waste ethos. Executive chef Brett Lavender, who has a background in classic fine dining across the globe, focuses on a fully vegan tasting menu, which earned the restaurant a green star from the Michelin Guide. The menu follows the seasons, but the fluffy brioche, made without eggs, milk, or butter, is a constant signature; it’s served up with fake foie gras made of lion’s mane mushrooms grown on owner Jason Renwick’s urban farm, Funga Farm, which also supplies several other restaurants in the city. Don’t overlook the cocktails.
Should you find yourself in need of carbs, perhaps after a big night out, look no further than Il Mattarello. Located inside the Torvehallerne food hall, the operation turns out some of the best pasta Copenhagen has to offer. Il Matarello is owned by Italian couple Lucia de Luca and Valerio Serino, who have welcomed crowds of international diners for their carbonara, which utilizes handmade, eggless spaghetti (to balance out the eggy sauce), guanciale, and pecorino. Cacio e pepe is also on the menu, along with a daily stuffed pasta like tortellini, tortelli, or cappelletti. Eat at the bar while watching the chefs fold and stuff the pasta in the kitchen, ideally with a glass of organic Italian red wine, followed by the tiramisu or panna cotta. The owners also run Terrá, a Nordic Italian fine dining restaurant.
After leaving his hyped minimalistic restaurant Geist back in 2020, chef Bo Beck toured the world doing pop-ups before settling back in Copenhagen to much fanfare. Bobe is set in the former home of smørrebrød restaurant Peder Oxe on Gråbrødretorv square. As you ascend to the restaurant, you’ll find a maze of rooms and an open kitchen, where it’s not uncommon to see Beck himself on the pass. At first, the chef wouldn’t serve any classics from Geist, but public demand got the best of him, so you may see famed dishes like thin-sliced avocado with caviar and almond oil or raw langoustine with yuzu and hibiscus. Other dishes on the a la carte and tasting menus follow seasonal produce while speaking their own casual-yet-sophisticated Bo-esque language, earning the restaurant a Bib Gourmand award. Head sommelier Ottavio Saglam serves up a mix of new natural wines and classic bottles.
This is the ultimate lunch spot for smørrebrød, best paired with a local beer. Both the interior and the smørrebrød are old-school, yet the vibe is fun, with servers cracking jokes and guests singing as they down shots of snaps. Come hungry because portions are generous in dishes like the classic fried plaice filets with remoulade or the impressive tower of Greenland shrimp with red and white mayonnaise. Other popular options include chicken salad, tartare, and roast beef. The restaurant is immensely popular so don’t forget to book ahead.
Copenhagen’s cocktail scene can be divided into eras before and after Balderdash, which elevated the drinks game in the city when it opened back in 2014. New Yorker Geoffrey Canilao runs the place more like a restaurant than a bar, adopting an unpretentious motto: “Prep like Michelin, but service like McDonald’s.” And it works. Servers are friendly but professional, flying past customers with custom cocktails. The ever-changing seasonal menu features some pre-batched options, as well as collaborations with various partners, from beekeepers to Noma Projects. The place gets busy Thursday to Saturday, and its location in the central historic quarter lures in the night crowd from all over the city.
Home to some of the best cinnamon buns in the Nordics, Juno is run by Swede Emil Glaser, a veteran of Noma. The tiny bakery in Østerbro is a year-round winner, from semlor (cream-filled buns) on Shrove Tuesday in February to lussekatter (saffron buns) in December, and it’s always worth any wait for a chance to try the black cardamom buns and croissants. When you finally reach the front of the queue, pair your prizes with a cup from Koppi, the Swedish company that has played a vital role in advancing Scandinavia’s coffee scene.
This fine dining restaurant is an institution, and many young talented chefs have kicked off careers in the kitchen. It was the first restaurant in Copenhagen to ever receive a Michelin star in 1983 and it got its second one in 2021 with Mark Lundgaard as the head chef. The dining rooms are located underground, in the cellar of the oldest building in Copenhagen, an auspicious site for the restaurant’s classic cooking rooted in French gastronomy. The menu includes dishes wagyu and caviar, turbot on the bone, and an impressive cheese cart. The cellar is a gem for wine nerds into old-school wines, and the tasting menu comes with several exclusive pairings on offer.
Atelier September relocated to a new location in Indre By, the city center, but continues to serve up some of the city’s best breakfast, including the famous avocado toast. The beautiful cafe, run by Frederik Bille Brahe, serves as a home away from home for stylish Copenhageners. They go to Atelier September to catch up with friends over mugs of matcha, plates of sliced rye bread and Comté, and sourdough croissants. Atelier September closes in the evenings, so migrate over to the buzzing Apollo Bar, which Bille Brahe also operates.
One of the city’s best burgers emerges from a working gas station. Owner Klaus Wittrup was one of the first in Copenhagen to make quality burgers from freshly ground beef cooked to order. Since the burger hype started in 2016, he’s opened several shops around the city, including a location at the airport. Organic meat (or fungi for vegetarians) sits on a fluffy potato bun with pickles and some greens, and you can add truffle salt or vinegar to your fries. Note: The restaurant is open until sold out.
With a background in fine dining (including acting as opening beverage director of now-closed Noma sister restaurant 108), Riccardo Marcon has created a casual modern Italian restaurant that delivers at a high level without all the fancy details. The menu follows the typical Italian structure (antipasto, primo, secondo), and you’ll find dishes like rabbit ravioli or spaghetti with broccoli rabe; the go-to is the much-talked-about signature spaghetti with butter, colatura, and caviar. You can order a la carte, but there’s also a set tasting menu on offer for those who’d like the whole shebang. The wine list includes a great selection from the natural wine world, and the Negroni, with a dash of absinthe, is said to be one of the best in the city. A generous pour of grappa will send you off to a good night’s sleep.
After leading the kitchen at Michelin-starred Marchal, the exclusive restaurant in the grand Hotel D’Angleterre, chef Andreas Bagh moved just across the street to open Esmée, inside the premises that used to be celebrity chef Bo Bech’s Geist. The cooking at the new restaurant isn’t about chasing after the French gastro bible, but it still reflects a fondness for the finer things, like a croque-monsieur with Gruyere and black truffle, blinis with caviar, or a lobster pasta. Save space for the soft serve.
Copenhagen’s Goldfinch borrows its name from the Hong Kong restaurant of the same name, featured in Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love. Chef Will King-Smith, previously of three-Michelin-starred Geranium, runs the kitchen while his wife, Megan Leung, is in charge of service on the floor. On many nights you’ll find off-duty local chefs in the dining room tucking into the incredible scallop toast (an upgraded version of shrimp toast) with thimbles of baijiu. Don’t miss out on steamed dumplings or the Hong Kong French toast for dessert. The cocktail program was created by award winning bartender Harry Bell, recently awarded Best Bartender by the Bartenders’ Choice Awards. Open late on weekends.
You’ll find some of Copenhagen’s most sought after rooms in the Hotel Sanders, just around the corner from Nyhavn. It’s especially evident why the hotel is so popular at Bar Tata, a decadent cocktail playground with table service. Head bartender Mathias Broksø runs the show, overseeing a drinks menu that changes seasonally, with sections like “Flowers After the Show” honoring the hotel’s founder Alexander Kølpin, once dubbed the world’s best solo ballerino back in the ’90s. Bartenders manage to create cocktails that are both boozy and delicate, making this a perfect stop during a night out.
Pickling, preserving, and fermenting are themes at Kadeau, which holds two Michelin stars. The kitchen sources much of its produce from the fertile soil of Danish island Bornholm, also home to Kadeau’s sister restaurant of the same name. Don’t miss the signature twice-smoked salmon (first cold smoked, then hot), finished off at the table. Plates are stunning, sometimes carefully decorated with frames of edible flowers. If co-owner Rasmus Kofoed is on the floor, he might persuade you into trying some Danish wine.
Few chefs in the city are as serious about seafood as Australian native Beau Clugston, who works closely with local fishermen to source items for Iluka. The menu, which changes constantly, sees dishes like seafood tartare, octopus with oyster cream, and Danish sea snails. You can also opt for the set menu and let the kitchen make all the decisions. The wine program is devoted to organic and biodynamic winemakers, often showcasing smaller producers and lesser-known wine regions. The venue offers all the flexibility of a neighborhood restaurant: Book well in advance or swing by to grab seats at the bar.
Located around the corner from the perennially thronged row houses of Nyhavn, the understated wine bar Den Vandrette is something of an oasis. Owner Sune Rosforth is one of Copenhagen’s leading importers of biodynamic wines, and here his team serves a thoughtful selection of charcuterie and cheese that plays well with the formidable list. There are some exceptional orange wines on offer from Georgia, ideally paired with some Georgian khachapuri.
Chef Kamilla Seidler Trebbien was a protégé of Noma founder Claus Meyer, and she worked as head chef of Meyer’s social restaurant project Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia, where she earned the Latin America’s Best Female Chef award from the World’s 50 Best organization. Some traces of her time in South America are visible in the flavors and techniques at Lola, Trebbien’s own restaurant, located on a beautiful hill in Christianshavn. Dinner here is best spent filling the table with medium sized dishes like broccoli with mole, followed by a dessert empanada with tangy Danish cheese. Don’t miss the butter naan. At lunch time the menu changes completely, bringing in a large selection of smørrebrød.
Other local chefs speak about Thorsten Schmidt with a bit of awe, in part because diners can come to Barr over and over and always receive the same high level of food and service. This harborfront eatery celebrates the flavors of the European beer belt with plenty of craft brews, a show-stopping schnitzel, and some very luxurious smørrebrød. The wine list carries some of the natural wine world’s most popular labels, like Frank Cornelissen and Tschida.
This Noma-backed restaurant is not your average burger joint. Talented Finish-born chef Toni Toivonen (previously of Noma and Inua in Japan) gets creative with plates like confit hen-of-the-woods mushrooms with black currant shoots or white asparagus with pine vinegar and koji emulsion on the (very affordable) tasting menu. Ingredients from Noma Projects show up in many dishes, making Popl something of a showroom for the product line. As for the burgers, there are plenty to choose from: Along with a meaty option and a veggie burger, watch out for options with monkfish or seasonal mushshrooms. There’s a short cocktail list, craft beer, and natural wine to drink alongside.
Thanks to Mads Battefeld, who used to work in Japan, Copenhagen has a world-class (and according to many, Michelin-worthy) sushi omakase utilizing sustainable seafood from the Nordic region. The nigiri and otsumami (snacks) menu could involve ingredients such as aged wild trout from southern Sjaelland, cross-hatch-cut herring with sesame and umeboshi, and honey-infused tamago cooked over charcoal. For years, Anaba has been one of the toughest spots to book in the city. Together with sake sommelier Henrik Ando Levinsen, Battefeld also runs sister restaurant Kappo Ando, which offers a more casual setting focused on yakitori grill.
Just months after opening in a permanent location in Langeliniekaj after popup stints, Koan earned two Michelin stars. Chef and owner Kristian Baumann, who helmed now-shuttered 108 when the restaurant earned a Michelin star, explores the flavors and techniques of Korea primarily using local, seasonal produce. Some repeat standouts from the tasting menu include the mandu with seasonal fillings, a savory take on kkwabaegi (twisted Korean donuts) with ice cream and caviar, and the showstopping sundae (Korean blood sausage) made with Troldgaarden pork and preserved black currants. The beverage pairings from Baumann’s business partner, Lasse Peder Nielsen, include some elegant, low-intervention wines, mainly from Europe but also Australia and the U.S. The founders also operate Juju, a more casual, a la carte restaurant, offering playful spins on Korean street food.
When former Tartine head baker Richard Hart made his Copenhagen debut in 2018, the lines snaked around the block. By all accounts, he exceeded expectations with his super-seeded rye bread and signature “city loaf” sourdough. Hart now works in Mexico (though he remains a co-owner at Hart Bageri), so Talia Richard-Carvajal calls the shots as head baker. There are 10 locations in total now, but it all started at the original premises on Gammel Kongevej, which remains busy. The Basque cheesecake is a killer, best messily scooped up with a spoon, according to Hart. As for savory options, the kimcheese sandwich is loaded with house-made kimchi and aged local cheese.
With around 50 different food stalls spread across 65,000 square feet, this street food market is the largest of its kind in the Nordics. Set on the island of Refshaleøen, the market encompasses food trucks offering Nepalese dishes, Moroccan food, Nordic hotdogs, Kurdish kebabs, and more. Take your pick, grab some drinks from the bar, and find a chair to lounge in the sun.
Is there a place to eat and drink in Copenhagen more idyllic than La Banchina? The question may enter your mind when you take in the vibrant tableau that tends to form on the restaurant’s jetty on a nice day, as Copenhageners dive into the water between sips of natural wine and bites of smoked sardines from the meat-free menu. There’s a sauna on the premises that you can book ahead, but the restaurant is walk-in only.
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Surt
Surt was one of the first to make the old Carlsberg Byen brewery area into a hot spot. People are known to cross half the city just to grab a pizza baked by Italian owner Giuseppe Oliva, who was also a key player in chef Christian Puglisi’s Baest, Copenhagen’s first upmarket Italian restaurant. Surt is ideal for lunch, when you can tuck into a Sur Pie baked in a tray, and equally good in the evening for the full experience: ancient grain-based sourdough pizzas loaded with a deep red sauce made from Sicilian siccagno tomatoes and topped with items like Hindsholm pork sausage and buffalo mozzarella. There’s also a great selection of wine from Sicilian producers, though you can also check out Surt’s nearby sister wine bar, Lĭquo, which serves wines from all 21 Italian regions.
Jordnær
Jordnær has been one of the hardest tables to score in the city after it earned its third Michelin star, an especially impressive feat considering a kitchen fire closed the place for months. Chef and owner Eric Kragh Vildgaard, who spent his teens in and out of juvenile detention before finding inspiration in the kitchen, operates the restaurant in Gentofte, a 20-minute drive from the town center. His wife, Tina Kragh, has won several service and sommelier awards of her own while overseeing the restaurant floor. The tasting menu, which hovers around 18 courses, threads together Nordic and Japanese flavors; options are heavy on seafood and skip meat entirely, so you might see something like gel made with langoustine heads, Cognac, and Tahitian vanilla.
Silberbauers Bistro
Mathias Silberbauer’s French bistro, decked out with red-checked tablecloths, changes its menu daily, but you’d be lucky to find beef onglet with pepper sauce, mussels topped with generous dollops of aioli, classic escargot with loads of garlic and herb butter, and pissaladière (an onion tart that’s a must-order if it’s on the menu). The chef used to run his own restaurant in Nice, and he’s a veteran of Relæ, Bæst, and Manfreds, the iconic restaurant that Silberbauers replaced. There’s an extensive wine list and knowledgeable staff to unlock its potential.
Bird
Despite its slightly out-of-the-way location in Frederiksberg, Bird attracts a crowd of international bartenders and drink nerds, especially after it won Best Cocktail Bar in Denmark at the 2024 Bartenders’ Choice Awards, a celebration of Nordic bars. The listening bar delivers “highballs with hi-fidelity,” as weekend DJs spin everything from jazz to Balearic house, while patrons enjoy mostly pre-batched cocktails (which make for even execution from drink to drink). The beverages tend to take cues from classics, often made with bottles from young craft distilleries. The signature Bonfire Manhattan is a good place to start, as is the selection of Negronis.
Baka d’ Busk
Tucked away in artsy Nørrebro, Baka d’ Busk is run by a group of friends, the self-styled “plant boys,” who devote the kitchen to their vegetarian ethos. Set with a variety of plates from different antique shops, no two tables look the same — except for ubiquitous shot glasses. (It’s almost as if servers are telepathic; visualize the word “vodka,” and a shot will come flying.) Dishes are large — chef and owner Jonathan Zeuthen Knoll doesn’t want anyone leaving hungry — and beautifully executed, with towering layers of prime veggies. The wine list is devoted to small craft producers.
Jatak
Jonathan Tam’s background at Relae and Noma certainly shaped him as a chef, but he shows off a unique cooking style at his own first restaurant. The tasting menu focuses on Nordic ingredients and Danish ones in particular, like pork served char siu-style from Hindsholm farm. Jatak works closely with 15-plus different suppliers to fill the kitchen shelves each week, while the sommeliers pour bottles from small winemakers that you hardly see elsewhere. Sit and dine at the counter to watch everything in the open kitchen. It’s no surprise that Jatak (meaning “Yes, please” in Danish) got awarded a Michelin star within its first months of service.
Sanchez
Since opening her first taco stand outside the Torvehallerne market back in 2015, chef Rosio Sanchez has grown a small empire of casual taquerias, as well as this crown jewel, which offers upscale a la carte and tasting menus. The menu reflects the chef’s Mexican upbringing in Chicago, and there’s a strong throughline of masa, which is always cooked fresh and transformed into perfect little tortillas. Among the more classic dishes, don’t sleep on the cochinita pibil taco with slow-cooked pork from Hindsholm, but be sure to try some of the more creative and seasonal items, like the spicy mussels. Solo diners are well taken care of in the bar, tucking into warm peanuts toasted with garlic and chile de árbol alongside mezcal margaritas. A big bonus: Many of the top restaurants in Copenhagen are only open for dinner, but Sanchez caters to the lunch crowd.
Pompette
Pompette is a tiny, walk-in-only wine bar and shop offering a great selection of natural wine at affordable prices; there’s always a red, white, bubbles, rosé, and orange on offer for roughly the same price as a pint of beer. There’s also a menu of tasty snacks such as ricotta and anchovies or mackerel escabeche to go alongside. The owners also operate Poulette just next door, which sells spicy fried chicken sandwiches worth traveling for, and Villette – a bar and canteen located around the corner.
Mirabelle Spisería
After 10 years operating as a bakery in hip Nørrebro, Mirabelle upgraded into a full-blown all-day restaurant that combines Danish produce with the food culture of Sicily, the homeland of founder Christian Puglisi (well known for the iconic, now-closed Relae). Come in the morning and you can still get the famous sourdough or freshly made pastries, or come by later in the day for must-order arancinis, especially the version with pork ragu and smoked scamorza cheese. Other highlights from the a la carte menu include steak tartare, ravioli, and the seasonal almond granita, and there’s a tasting menu at dinner for those that prefer.
Address: Guldbergsgade 29A
Prolog Coffee Bar
Copenhagen is home to some of the best coffee bars in Europe. Prolog, opened by Jonas Gehl and Sebastian Quistorff back in 2016, has two shops in the city, both hubs for the most devoted coffee nerds. Opt for the one in Kødbyen to enjoy pastries from Juno bakery and a nice cup of java. Prolog works directly with around 30 different farmers, mainly from Mexico, Costa Rica, Colombia, Peru, Ethiopia, and Kenya. You can also stock up on beans and all kinds of coffee equipment.
Kødbyens Fiskebar
This landmark in Copenhagen’s Meatpacking district still delivers excellent seafood after 15 years. The a la carte dishes include fish and chips, moules frites, an extensive oyster selection, top-quality langoustines, and various types of grilled fish. The kitchen stays open until 11 p.m., making it a good choice for a late dinner, and the wine list pulls from a generous cellar.
Propaganda
Everyone who goes to Propaganda ends up drinking the Kool-Aid, except here it tastes like natural wine and spicy Korean food. Riccardo Marcon (also the founder of Barabba) teamed up with chef Youra Kim to open this casual modern Korean eatery combined with a bottle shop. Come for the signature gochujang-glazed chicken topped with crunchy peanuts, or go for seasonal dishes like spicy potato with fish cakes or white asparagus kkochi (skewers) with rice cakes and pine nut sauce. For drinks, just pick a bottle from the shop. The corkage fee is canceled after midnight and the kitchen runs late, making this a great spot to end the night. Propaganda’s block on the once not-so-diner-friendly Vester Farimagsgade is now a highly sought-after area among new restaurateurs.
John’s Hotdog Deli
A good old hot dog is the ultimate street food in the Nordics. You’ll find stands scattered all over the city selling røde pølser (red hotdogs): boiled pork wieners wrapped in bright red casings. For a true taste of what is arguably the Danish national dish, head to John’s Hotdog Deli, a cart conveniently parked just outside the Central Station. The dogs come stuffed with distinct, creative flavors, such as wild boar with mushroom or lemon with thyme, and there’s an array of toppings beyond ketchup and mustard.
Slurp Ramen Joint
Since opening its doors back in 2017, Slurp has helped foster a ramen trend all over the Nordic countries. Founder Philipp Inreiter, a protege of Noma, traveled around Japan and came back with a passion for broth and noodles. The ramen is Tokyo-style and Inreiter doesn’t hold back on the spice, making a bowl perfect on a cold winter’s day. The ’nduja miso ramen, a recent addition to the menu, has earned a bit of hype, contributing to the shop’s one downside: the lines. People have been known to line up for two hours during the weekend lunch rush.
Ark
This restaurant takes its sustainability program seriously, from the paint on the wall to its kitchen’s zero-waste ethos. Executive chef Brett Lavender, who has a background in classic fine dining across the globe, focuses on a fully vegan tasting menu, which earned the restaurant a green star from the Michelin Guide. The menu follows the seasons, but the fluffy brioche, made without eggs, milk, or butter, is a constant signature; it’s served up with fake foie gras made of lion’s mane mushrooms grown on owner Jason Renwick’s urban farm, Funga Farm, which also supplies several other restaurants in the city. Don’t overlook the cocktails.
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Il Mattarello
Should you find yourself in need of carbs, perhaps after a big night out, look no further than Il Mattarello. Located inside the Torvehallerne food hall, the operation turns out some of the best pasta Copenhagen has to offer. Il Matarello is owned by Italian couple Lucia de Luca and Valerio Serino, who have welcomed crowds of international diners for their carbonara, which utilizes handmade, eggless spaghetti (to balance out the eggy sauce), guanciale, and pecorino. Cacio e pepe is also on the menu, along with a daily stuffed pasta like tortellini, tortelli, or cappelletti. Eat at the bar while watching the chefs fold and stuff the pasta in the kitchen, ideally with a glass of organic Italian red wine, followed by the tiramisu or panna cotta. The owners also run Terrá, a Nordic Italian fine dining restaurant.
Bobe
After leaving his hyped minimalistic restaurant Geist back in 2020, chef Bo Beck toured the world doing pop-ups before settling back in Copenhagen to much fanfare. Bobe is set in the former home of smørrebrød restaurant Peder Oxe on Gråbrødretorv square. As you ascend to the restaurant, you’ll find a maze of rooms and an open kitchen, where it’s not uncommon to see Beck himself on the pass. At first, the chef wouldn’t serve any classics from Geist, but public demand got the best of him, so you may see famed dishes like thin-sliced avocado with caviar and almond oil or raw langoustine with yuzu and hibiscus. Other dishes on the a la carte and tasting menus follow seasonal produce while speaking their own casual-yet-sophisticated Bo-esque language, earning the restaurant a Bib Gourmand award. Head sommelier Ottavio Saglam serves up a mix of new natural wines and classic bottles.
Schønnemann
This is the ultimate lunch spot for smørrebrød, best paired with a local beer. Both the interior and the smørrebrød are old-school, yet the vibe is fun, with servers cracking jokes and guests singing as they down shots of snaps. Come hungry because portions are generous in dishes like the classic fried plaice filets with remoulade or the impressive tower of Greenland shrimp with red and white mayonnaise. Other popular options include chicken salad, tartare, and roast beef. The restaurant is immensely popular so don’t forget to book ahead.
Balderdash
Copenhagen’s cocktail scene can be divided into eras before and after Balderdash, which elevated the drinks game in the city when it opened back in 2014. New Yorker Geoffrey Canilao runs the place more like a restaurant than a bar, adopting an unpretentious motto: “Prep like Michelin, but service like McDonald’s.” And it works. Servers are friendly but professional, flying past customers with custom cocktails. The ever-changing seasonal menu features some pre-batched options, as well as collaborations with various partners, from beekeepers to Noma Projects. The place gets busy Thursday to Saturday, and its location in the central historic quarter lures in the night crowd from all over the city.
Juno
Home to some of the best cinnamon buns in the Nordics, Juno is run by Swede Emil Glaser, a veteran of Noma. The tiny bakery in Østerbro is a year-round winner, from semlor (cream-filled buns) on Shrove Tuesday in February to lussekatter (saffron buns) in December, and it’s always worth any wait for a chance to try the black cardamom buns and croissants. When you finally reach the front of the queue, pair your prizes with a cup from Koppi, the Swedish company that has played a vital role in advancing Scandinavia’s coffee scene.
Kong Hans Kælder
This fine dining restaurant is an institution, and many young talented chefs have kicked off careers in the kitchen. It was the first restaurant in Copenhagen to ever receive a Michelin star in 1983 and it got its second one in 2021 with Mark Lundgaard as the head chef. The dining rooms are located underground, in the cellar of the oldest building in Copenhagen, an auspicious site for the restaurant’s classic cooking rooted in French gastronomy. The menu includes dishes wagyu and caviar, turbot on the bone, and an impressive cheese cart. The cellar is a gem for wine nerds into old-school wines, and the tasting menu comes with several exclusive pairings on offer.
Atelier September
Atelier September relocated to a new location in Indre By, the city center, but continues to serve up some of the city’s best breakfast, including the famous avocado toast. The beautiful cafe, run by Frederik Bille Brahe, serves as a home away from home for stylish Copenhageners. They go to Atelier September to catch up with friends over mugs of matcha, plates of sliced rye bread and Comté, and sourdough croissants. Atelier September closes in the evenings, so migrate over to the buzzing Apollo Bar, which Bille Brahe also operates.
Gasoline Grill
One of the city’s best burgers emerges from a working gas station. Owner Klaus Wittrup was one of the first in Copenhagen to make quality burgers from freshly ground beef cooked to order. Since the burger hype started in 2016, he’s opened several shops around the city, including a location at the airport. Organic meat (or fungi for vegetarians) sits on a fluffy potato bun with pickles and some greens, and you can add truffle salt or vinegar to your fries. Note: The restaurant is open until sold out.
Barabba
With a background in fine dining (including acting as opening beverage director of now-closed Noma sister restaurant 108), Riccardo Marcon has created a casual modern Italian restaurant that delivers at a high level without all the fancy details. The menu follows the typical Italian structure (antipasto, primo, secondo), and you’ll find dishes like rabbit ravioli or spaghetti with broccoli rabe; the go-to is the much-talked-about signature spaghetti with butter, colatura, and caviar. You can order a la carte, but there’s also a set tasting menu on offer for those who’d like the whole shebang. The wine list includes a great selection from the natural wine world, and the Negroni, with a dash of absinthe, is said to be one of the best in the city. A generous pour of grappa will send you off to a good night’s sleep.
Esmée
After leading the kitchen at Michelin-starred Marchal, the exclusive restaurant in the grand Hotel D’Angleterre, chef Andreas Bagh moved just across the street to open Esmée, inside the premises that used to be celebrity chef Bo Bech’s Geist. The cooking at the new restaurant isn’t about chasing after the French gastro bible, but it still reflects a fondness for the finer things, like a croque-monsieur with Gruyere and black truffle, blinis with caviar, or a lobster pasta. Save space for the soft serve.
Goldfinch
Copenhagen’s Goldfinch borrows its name from the Hong Kong restaurant of the same name, featured in Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love. Chef Will King-Smith, previously of three-Michelin-starred Geranium, runs the kitchen while his wife, Megan Leung, is in charge of service on the floor. On many nights you’ll find off-duty local chefs in the dining room tucking into the incredible scallop toast (an upgraded version of shrimp toast) with thimbles of baijiu. Don’t miss out on steamed dumplings or the Hong Kong French toast for dessert. The cocktail program was created by award winning bartender Harry Bell, recently awarded Best Bartender by the Bartenders’ Choice Awards. Open late on weekends.
Bar Tata
You’ll find some of Copenhagen’s most sought after rooms in the Hotel Sanders, just around the corner from Nyhavn. It’s especially evident why the hotel is so popular at Bar Tata, a decadent cocktail playground with table service. Head bartender Mathias Broksø runs the show, overseeing a drinks menu that changes seasonally, with sections like “Flowers After the Show” honoring the hotel’s founder Alexander Kølpin, once dubbed the world’s best solo ballerino back in the ’90s. Bartenders manage to create cocktails that are both boozy and delicate, making this a perfect stop during a night out.
Kadeau
Pickling, preserving, and fermenting are themes at Kadeau, which holds two Michelin stars. The kitchen sources much of its produce from the fertile soil of Danish island Bornholm, also home to Kadeau’s sister restaurant of the same name. Don’t miss the signature twice-smoked salmon (first cold smoked, then hot), finished off at the table. Plates are stunning, sometimes carefully decorated with frames of edible flowers. If co-owner Rasmus Kofoed is on the floor, he might persuade you into trying some Danish wine.
Restaurant Iluka
Few chefs in the city are as serious about seafood as Australian native Beau Clugston, who works closely with local fishermen to source items for Iluka. The menu, which changes constantly, sees dishes like seafood tartare, octopus with oyster cream, and Danish sea snails. You can also opt for the set menu and let the kitchen make all the decisions. The wine program is devoted to organic and biodynamic winemakers, often showcasing smaller producers and lesser-known wine regions. The venue offers all the flexibility of a neighborhood restaurant: Book well in advance or swing by to grab seats at the bar.
Den Vandrette
Located around the corner from the perennially thronged row houses of Nyhavn, the understated wine bar Den Vandrette is something of an oasis. Owner Sune Rosforth is one of Copenhagen’s leading importers of biodynamic wines, and here his team serves a thoughtful selection of charcuterie and cheese that plays well with the formidable list. There are some exceptional orange wines on offer from Georgia, ideally paired with some Georgian khachapuri.
Restaurant Lola
Chef Kamilla Seidler Trebbien was a protégé of Noma founder Claus Meyer, and she worked as head chef of Meyer’s social restaurant project Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia, where she earned the Latin America’s Best Female Chef award from the World’s 50 Best organization. Some traces of her time in South America are visible in the flavors and techniques at Lola, Trebbien’s own restaurant, located on a beautiful hill in Christianshavn. Dinner here is best spent filling the table with medium sized dishes like broccoli with mole, followed by a dessert empanada with tangy Danish cheese. Don’t miss the butter naan. At lunch time the menu changes completely, bringing in a large selection of smørrebrød.
Restaurant Barr
Other local chefs speak about Thorsten Schmidt with a bit of awe, in part because diners can come to Barr over and over and always receive the same high level of food and service. This harborfront eatery celebrates the flavors of the European beer belt with plenty of craft brews, a show-stopping schnitzel, and some very luxurious smørrebrød. The wine list carries some of the natural wine world’s most popular labels, like Frank Cornelissen and Tschida.
Popl Burger
This Noma-backed restaurant is not your average burger joint. Talented Finish-born chef Toni Toivonen (previously of Noma and Inua in Japan) gets creative with plates like confit hen-of-the-woods mushrooms with black currant shoots or white asparagus with pine vinegar and koji emulsion on the (very affordable) tasting menu. Ingredients from Noma Projects show up in many dishes, making Popl something of a showroom for the product line. As for the burgers, there are plenty to choose from: Along with a meaty option and a veggie burger, watch out for options with monkfish or seasonal mushshrooms. There’s a short cocktail list, craft beer, and natural wine to drink alongside.
Sushi Anaba
Thanks to Mads Battefeld, who used to work in Japan, Copenhagen has a world-class (and according to many, Michelin-worthy) sushi omakase utilizing sustainable seafood from the Nordic region. The nigiri and otsumami (snacks) menu could involve ingredients such as aged wild trout from southern Sjaelland, cross-hatch-cut herring with sesame and umeboshi, and honey-infused tamago cooked over charcoal. For years, Anaba has been one of the toughest spots to book in the city. Together with sake sommelier Henrik Ando Levinsen, Battefeld also runs sister restaurant Kappo Ando, which offers a more casual setting focused on yakitori grill.
Restaurant Koan
Just months after opening in a permanent location in Langeliniekaj after popup stints, Koan earned two Michelin stars. Chef and owner Kristian Baumann, who helmed now-shuttered 108 when the restaurant earned a Michelin star, explores the flavors and techniques of Korea primarily using local, seasonal produce. Some repeat standouts from the tasting menu include the mandu with seasonal fillings, a savory take on kkwabaegi (twisted Korean donuts) with ice cream and caviar, and the showstopping sundae (Korean blood sausage) made with Troldgaarden pork and preserved black currants. The beverage pairings from Baumann’s business partner, Lasse Peder Nielsen, include some elegant, low-intervention wines, mainly from Europe but also Australia and the U.S. The founders also operate Juju, a more casual, a la carte restaurant, offering playful spins on Korean street food.
Hart Bageri Holmen
When former Tartine head baker Richard Hart made his Copenhagen debut in 2018, the lines snaked around the block. By all accounts, he exceeded expectations with his super-seeded rye bread and signature “city loaf” sourdough. Hart now works in Mexico (though he remains a co-owner at Hart Bageri), so Talia Richard-Carvajal calls the shots as head baker. There are 10 locations in total now, but it all started at the original premises on Gammel Kongevej, which remains busy. The Basque cheesecake is a killer, best messily scooped up with a spoon, according to Hart. As for savory options, the kimcheese sandwich is loaded with house-made kimchi and aged local cheese.
Reffen Street Food Market
With around 50 different food stalls spread across 65,000 square feet, this street food market is the largest of its kind in the Nordics. Set on the island of Refshaleøen, the market encompasses food trucks offering Nepalese dishes, Moroccan food, Nordic hotdogs, Kurdish kebabs, and more. Take your pick, grab some drinks from the bar, and find a chair to lounge in the sun.
La Banchina
Is there a place to eat and drink in Copenhagen more idyllic than La Banchina? The question may enter your mind when you take in the vibrant tableau that tends to form on the restaurant’s jetty on a nice day, as Copenhageners dive into the water between sips of natural wine and bites of smoked sardines from the meat-free menu. There’s a sauna on the premises that you can book ahead, but the restaurant is walk-in only.